The river Rhine has a fearsome reputation among yachtsmen, with many horrific tales of stranding, collision, sinkings and even explosion..... Fortunately for us it was high summer and the river was in a kindly mood most of the time. It isn't a place to be taken lightly though, we didn't find it dangerous, but extreme care is required, because of the high density traffic, fast flowing water, and Training Walls, more of them later.
We left the beautiful city of Strasbourg on August 3rd, and made our way upstream via the old Rhone - Rhine canal, to meet the Rhine at Rhinau. The stream was not too bad, as this part of the Rhine is in reality a big canal, and the stream is controlled. The locks are huge, and are all double (side by side). This is a strategic thing, because it allows the canal to be accessible all the time, even during maintainance.

                                                                 
                                                                                                   First Rhine lock upstream                         We saw many Dragonflies                    Our first look at Swiss waters                  They must have known that
                                                                                                                    Rhinau                                                                                                                                                                                               we were coming!

It was at this time that we had our next scare! In the little canals where there is a 6kmh speed limit, things had beeen running smoothly, but now in the Rhine, needing more power to stem the flow, we found that the propeller was vibrating badly! The propeller had been bent, in the accident, although this wasn't visible to the eye. What were we to do? We had many hundreds of miles to go, and a North Sea crossing, and  we were not prepared to risk it.... We met a really nice German couple who recommended a yard to us, which was downstream, so we resolved to go there and get the prop fixed, after Switzerland, and hoped no more damage would ensue in the meantime. So it was that on August 5th we crossed the border into Switzerland at Basel. We approached the Customs control, and explained that we wished to visit for a few days, we were nervous because Switzerland is not in the European Union, and we had heard tales of stroppy officials, as it was, the guy said "OK" so on we went. The stream was stronger now, really slowing us down. The ferryboats in Basel are attached to overhead wires, so if their engines break down they are not washed away!
There are 2 locks on the Swiss Rhine, Augst and Birsfelden, upstream from there is Reinfelden, the highest point of the navigable Rhine, which is where we stopped.
We were very pleased, we had reached our goal. We only stayed for a couple of days, as it rained a lot, and it was very expensive there.

                                                                 
                                                                                                             Rheinfelden                                One of the many stork's nests                      Waterfall nr Reinfelden                    Swamp boats could go upstream
 
 

                                                                 
                                                                          Picturesque but expensive                            Skipper tries the water, it was not cold, we used a lifeline                     If you thought the only Gondolas
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             were in Venice! Here they race them

So in the rain we headed downstream towards Germany, there are 10 locks on the Rhine, the lowest, near the German border, after that none till the North Sea.
As we left the last lock at Iffzeheim, we heard a loud bang, and wondered what it could be, we were well outside the buoys that mark the Training walls (or groynes that are built in the river to make it dredge itself). We were later warned by the Germans that we should not go nearer to those buoys than 10m! Another lesson learned, thank the Lord for steel boats!

                                                                 
                                                                                                  This barge had a fouled prop                       Last lock of the Rhine                              So out we came again,                             The mate all dressed up
                                                                                                and went under the wrong arch                                 Iffzeheim                                           to have the prop fixed                                         for the Fest
                                                                                             of a bridge, gladly no one was hurt
 

We arrived at the town of Speyer and were hauled out  at the yard of Braun's who had been recommended to us. They told us that they were quick, good, but not cheap......
Hmmm! so we found when we receved their bill! However, we were hauled out on Thursday morning, the prop was removed and driven to Lipps of Mainz, returned on that evening, was refitted next morning and we were testing it in the river on Friday afternoon! All was well. Meanwhile we noticed that on Friday there was a "Fest" in Speyer, so we put on our best clothes and went along, it was a night to remember, with stalls selling dishes from many different German cities, Oompah bands, Rock bands and so on. It was a very late night, and we were a little fragile on our departure next day! Next we had to negotiate the Rhine Gorge.

                                                               
                                                                                                After a night on the town                                  Fest at Speyer                                                      Worms                                          Nierstein (where the
                                                                                                 Speyer looks like this!!                                                                                                                                                                                hock comes from)
 

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